Worldwide with Idalis

Albania must be one of Europe’s hidden gems because when I spent a week there, it was nearly impossible to meet other Americans. Not only was it stunning with all its natural beauty, but it was also quite affordable compared to Central Europe. From my experience, a week was not enough; it’s a nature lover’s dream, and I am determined to go back. 

Getting There

• We flew into Tirana International Airport (TIA), the country’s main international hub. From the moment we landed, we knew a car would be essential, as public transport is limited, especially outside the capital.
• We booked a car a week in advance through Auto Brahimi Car Rental for just €140. One thing to note is that they only take cash, so make sure to have euros or Albanian lek ready when you arrive.
• The best time to visit Albania is during the summer months (from June to August). This period offers enjoyable weather and a lot of beach clubs, hotels, and activities close down during the off-season. I went in April, and in the South, nearly nothing was open, which shocked us because off-season hits them hard. 

Where to Stay

• While visiting Albania, I suggest choosing hotels for your stays. Selecting a hotel gave us a sense of security, surrounded by professional staff and fellow travelers like ourselves. Some hotels I recommend staying in are: Hotel Liro, Zoe Hora, Riverside Komani Lake, and Hotel Epidamn Boutique & Spa.
• Albania offers a variety of areas for accommodations. During our visit, we opted for a location that was either by the beach or the city center. Since the driving is crazy in most cities, we preferred to stay at central locations so we could park our car and walk. 
• You must visit multiple cities while being there, as there is so much to see.

Practical Tips

• You HAVE to rent a car, as public transportation can be quite limited. Renting a vehicle is both simple and budget-friendly. We spent €140 on a 7-day car rental.
• Bring cash. While I discovered that many more places accepted cards than I initially expected, a few of the hotels I stayed at explicitly required cash payments. Additionally, you’ll need cash for souvenirs and smaller local shops.
• Before heading to Albania, it’s wise to check with your mobile provider regarding service availability. My friend and I use Vodafone and Orange, and unfortunately, neither worked while we were there. Therefore, it might be a good idea to download specific maps on Google Maps for your convenience.
• Learn a few words like “faleminderit” (thank you) or “tungjatjeta” (hello) for extra appreciation.
• Try Raki alcohol, usually between 45% and 50% ABV,just as potent as vodka or whiskey.
• What to Wear in Albania? Pack a variety of clothing suitable for hiking, beach outings, and elegant dinners. Given Albania’s diverse geography, it’s essential to have outfits that accommodate various activities. Consider including:
  • Tennis shoes, shorts, and sunglasses for hikes
  • Bikinis, cover-ups, and sandals for beach days
  • Dresses, heels, and light jackets for those special dinner occasions.

What Cities to Visit (8-10 day itinerary)

Tirana (1-2 days)

Upon your arrival in Tirana, I recommend heading to the city center and exploring on foot. Driving can be quite chaotic, and parking is quite limited. It’s best to rent your car when you’re ready to leave Tirana, either in the morning or at night. This approach is less stressful, and taxis are readily available throughout the city. While you’re in Tirana, here are some activities I suggest:

• Lakror Ane: For one of the best lakror, a traditional pie in Albania, be sure to visit this restaurant, which offers a variety of delicious options.
• Pyramid of Tirana: This free activity provides a stunning viewpoint in the heart of Tirana, making it a perfect spot to take a break and enjoy some people-watching.
• Et’hem Bey Mosque (free): A beautiful and historic site worth visiting.
• Bunk’Art 2: To learn more about Albanian history, I recommend visiting this bunker museum. Bunk’Art 2 features the first major video exhibition dedicated to the victims of communist terror from 1912 to 1991, all set within an intriguing old bunker.
• Kapelet Restaurant: This eatery boasts one of the best views of Tirana. Although it requires a drive up a hill, the breathtaking scenery and excellent traditional cuisine make it well worth the trip.

Ksamil (1-2 days)

Time to hit the road! Drive about 4 hours from Tirana to Ksamil, one of Albania’s most beautiful beach towns. If you have time along the way, you should make a detour at the famous Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a stunning natural spring with crystal-clear blue water. 

• Principote Beach Club: If you’re visiting during the summer, unwind and enjoy the vibrant atmosphere at this beach club. It offers a Tulum-like vibe, although it is a bit pricier compared to typical Albanian costs.
• Ksamil Islands: Rent a paddle boat, kayak, or hire a small boat to explore the four Ksamil Islands just offshore. The closest is about 400 meters from the main beach.
• Guvat Restaurant: End your day at one of the beach bars or rooftop restaurants for great views and seafood. 
• Bora Bora Beach, Lori Beach, & Sunset Beach Ksamil: These beaches have calm water and good beachside service. Many beaches charge for sunbeds in the summer (€5–€10). Visit early to grab a good spot.

Himarë (1 day)

Himarë may not have been my top choice, but it certainly attracts many summer tourists. During the off-season, however, you can easily pass on this town, as it tends to be quite deserted with most places closed. The town is flat and situated right by the beach, making it an ideal spot for those looking to enjoy a day by the sea.

Dhërmi (1-2 days)

Dhërmi is one of my favorite spots in the north, reminiscent of Italy. The architecture here features stunning orange hues and rolling hills, offering breathtaking viewpoints. While exploring Dhërmi, you’ll want to discover the city, but keep in mind that, despite its proximity to the ocean, it’s not easily accessible on foot, making Himarë a more suitable option for those seeking relaxation.

A must-visit is the hotel Zoe Hora, even if you’re not staying there. It boasts a restaurant, spa, and bar that are open to guests. With spectacular views, excellent service, and mouthwatering food, it’s an experience not to be missed.

Vlorë (1-2 days)

In Vlorë, we had the pleasure of staying at Hotel Liro, which was truly stunning. Instead of venturing into the town, we opted to relax on the beach right by the hotel. Although this hotel is small, it features a bar, a restaurant (Fig by Hotel Liro), and direct access to a multi-level beach. I highly recommend considering a stay here if you get the opportunity, or even just dining at the restaurant (Fig by Hotel Liro).

Shkodër (1 day)

Shkodër is a vibrant city that serves as a gateway to Theth and Tirana, with convenient bus services connecting these destinations. While it may not boast the most aesthetic appeal, it offers a rich local atmosphere where you can immerse yourself in the culture, savor traditional and affordable cuisine, explore museums, and enjoy a perfect resting spot between cities.

• Mrizi i Zanave: Located nearby in Fishtë (accessible by car), this farm-to-table restaurant offers delightful Albanian cuisine. It’s definitely worth the detour if you haven’t been there yet.
• Marubi National Museum of Photography: This is Albania’s first photography museum, showcasing captivating black-and-white images from the 1850s onward.
• Ebu Beker Mosque: You might find yourself passing by this striking modern mosque situated in the city center without even realizing it.
• M’Kanda Gelateria: Although we’re not in Italy, this gelateria in the city center is renowned for its affogato. As someone who visits Italy annually, I can confidently say it’s the best affogato I’ve ever tasted.

Theth National Park (1-2 days)

To reach this enchanting village nestled in the mountains, plan to leave Shkodër around 6:30 AM and navigate the winding roads. If you have a rental car, you can drive yourself, but be cautious. Alternatively, you can take the sole bus that services the area or join a group with a tour guide. The journey to Theth is steep and winding, yet remarkably scenic. Once you arrive, keep in mind that restaurants may close during the off-season, so it’s wise to pack some snacks just in case.

• Theth Church: Don’t miss the iconic stone church featured in many images of Albania. Entry is free, and the church is small yet significant. Built in 1892, this Catholic church has served various roles throughout history, including a school and a village hospital during the communist era.

• Grunas Waterfall: I recommend visiting Grunas Waterfall, which involves a moderate hike with picturesque views along the way. The hike takes about 40 minutes one way, and while the waterfall is small, its beauty is undeniable.
• Theth Blue Eye: One of the most famous attractions in Theth is the Blue Eye, though it’s not located in the town center. A short drive will take you there, but be prepared for a long day of walking, as it will require a good amount of your energy.

Komani Lake & Shala River (1-2 days)

One of the highlights of our trip to Albania was our stay at the Riverside Koman Lake Hostel. To reach this gem, we had to rise early from Shkodër, drive to Komani Lake, and catch the 10:00 AM boat to the hostel. Upon arrival, we enjoyed a complimentary tour of the stunning Shala River. At the hostel, we relaxed in a hammock, soaked up the sun on beach chairs, crossed the suspension bridge, and connected with fellow travelers.

Note: Hostel and ferry are cash only (€25 per person), payable in Euros or Albanian Lek.

Other Places to Visit in Albania if You Have Extra Time

There’s so much more to Albania than what listed and if you have extra time I highly recommend visiting these spots.

• Mrizi i Zanave: Nestled in the northern mountains of Albania, this unique rustic farm-to-table restaurant raises its own animals and produces cheese and wine on-site. It offers a delicious deep dive into traditional Albanian cuisine. It’s well worth the visit and surprisingly popular. We toured the factory, and there’s also a bar and hotel nearby. While there is another location in Tirana, it is solely a restaurant and not a farm.
• Abaia Winery and Vineyard: Located just outside Durrës, this popular winery impressed us with its guided wine tour inside a bunker-style winery. They also include a Raki tasting, which is their local version of vodka and tequila.
• Berat: Situated in the south, Berat is a charming town known as the “City of 1,000 Windows,” featuring white Ottoman-era houses that adorn the hillsides. This UNESCO World Heritage site boasts cobblestone streets and a 13th-century castle.
• Gjirokastër: Renowned for its extensive use of stone in house construction, giving them a castle-like appearance, and its cobbled streets lead to the Bazaar. You can also visit the Bazaar Mosque, built in 1557. Gjirokastër is also famous for its wine, with many wine tours available.

If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path European adventure, Albania delivers, hard. Be prepared for crazy drivers but great hospitality. The Albanians welcome tourists and make the trip so much better. They speak great English and have such a unique cuisine I’ve never had before.

Take the trip, rent the car, pack the cash, and prepare to be wowed.